by Emmanuelle Varron and Nicoleta Tomsa on cafleurebon.com, December 28th 2022
Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 Emmanuelle Varron Senior, Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador and Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor
Now that you have heard from Ermano and me, (our Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 here) and (The Best Fragrances of 2022 here), Ida and Lauryn’s we continue our Ten Best Perfumes of 2022 lists today with Sr. Editors Emmanuelle Varron and Nicoleta Tomsa, their choices are very different. Now it’s time to reveal their respective Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
2022 has been an intense year in terms of releases: new fragrances, of course, but also many many new brands, I was often overwhelmed with the feeling of not being able to keep up with the pace of these multiple launches. Furthermore Esxence 2022, back after a three-year absence (and my first one), which was so exciting but hard to control, as temptations and favorites have multiplied. Choosing Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 was a very complicated exercise, with tough choices. I chose to highlight fragrances with raw materials that surprise, reveal new facets and perspectives; fragrances that turned me upside down, confused me sometimes and gave me hope that creativity was not yet buried in perfumery. I hope that this new momentum will encourage perfumers (and brands!) even more not to reproduce but to invent, to take risks and step out of their comfort zone. The recent initiatives of raw materials producers, composition houses included, to reinterpret Nature both in natural and via synthetic molecules in an eco-responsible approach is in any case an encouraging signal.-Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador
Emmanuelle’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 in alphabetical order:
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Zoologist Cow (Nathalie Feisthauer): Nathalie Feisthauer told me about a fragrance she had created for Zoologist called Cow a few months before its release, a perfume which had led her into a much more figurative olfactory universe than her usual compositions. Alas, it is very difficult to find the brand’s perfumes in France. So, thanks to her great generosity, Nathalie Feisthauer offered me a sample and a small bottle from her lab. Having spent all my childhood summers in the Normandy countryside, in a house surrounded by fields of cows, I was impatient to discover her own interpretation: what a surprise! I found together all the smells that were familiar to me: green apple, milk, sage and freshly cut grass treated with the delicacy that characterizes the perfumer’s work. A floral and spring bouquet accentuates the rural facet: lily of the valley, violet and jasmine form a wild bunch, one of those that one composes while strolling in the middle of the countryside. The musks and benzoin bring roundness full of tenderness after a few hours: a real delight! zoologistperfumes @nathaliefeisthauer
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Nicoleta’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2022
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Before sitting down and taking time to write this year’s top ten, I revisited my past year years articles and smiled, as some things become more obvious once you take enough distance to see them clearly. Many parallels have been drawn between the five stages of grief and life in a post-pandemic world and the Kubler-Ross model, initially developed for studying people who were dying, was proven to be true for how we all generally process grief and trauma. Revisiting my 2020 top, filled to the brim with joyous gourmands and bright compositions, I chuckled. Denial much? Ahem. My 2021 was not angry per se but intense, but many of my choices were placed in escapist worlds, some built around abstract concepts and others rooted in mythology or distant imaginary pasts. If the algorithm is to be applied this year, now is the time for bargaining. Between my newfound love for feminine soft musks and florals and bouncing back to the safety blanket of resinous dark corners or delicious gourmands, and all the way in between, my love for the olfactive art does not grow dim but rekindles itself in new, rewarding, and surprising ways. And if you will allow me to paraphrase Pablo Picasso — “Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life,” These perfumes were my favorite cleaning tools and oh boy, did I need a good dusting this year! My Top Ten Perfumes 2022 in no particular order. –Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor
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Zoologist Cow: Nathalie Feistheur- Refreshing, tender, feels like eating a crisp granny smith apple, laying on your back, imagining animals shapes out of the clouds in the sky, not a care in the world. Please don’t be angry with me, but each time I wore my sample, I also sang the infamous Doja Cat song with this name
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Original article on : www.cafleurebon.com
