The French house BURDIN is one of those sleeping beauties of the 1930s who recently came back to life. The name Burdin may not be completely new to you; Stéphane Burdin founded the brand in Paris in 1937; one of the first selective perfumeries, located on Boulevard Sébastopol. Different brands rubbed shoulders with the fragrances he composed, dressed by Lalique or the crystal works of Nancy. While this first address is no longer connected to the brand, Burdin’s selective perfumeries still exist in France today.
Under the direction of the founder’s grandchildren, the Burdin house returned to the forefront in 2014. With first a women’s collection, “OR,” signed by perfumer Véronique Nyberg, the brand is now enriching its range with a men’s collection, “Platinum,” as well as a new feminine perfume, Emmène-Moi, signed by Nathalie Feisthauer.
After the first range of three feminine perfumes in homage to the first compositions of the House (Tinoutcha, Paris Minuit, and Les Beaux Jours),Burdin launched four new fragrances last June: the Platinum collection, which is aimed at men, with Amoroso, En Garde, and Sans Témoin, and on top of that a new women’s fragrance, Emmène-Moi. Each perfume is absolutely original since Christine Burdin does not have an archive of the brand’s formulas, but each of the names was featured in the historical catalog of the brand.
Amoroso is a bit like the image of male Italian elegance. This is at least the inspiration that guided Nathalie Feisthauer, and she was successful because the perfume emanates something very Mediterranean. The charm of a Cologne, rich in citrus fruits, to which Nathalie Feisthauer has added complexity with a green fig accord, lifted up by lavender, and given depth using woody notes (cedar, vetiver). The whole exhales a refined and sensual freshness—a summer scent, which is very elegant on a man, although it works for any gender.
With En Garde, which draws its name from the world of fencing, the brand explores a summery direction again. This wink to the pine forests of the Mediterranean is a fairly original fragrance; a hot-and-cold game around the pine note, with a mineral vibe. There’s a contrast between the green conifer notes of the pine and the sensual side of the resin, enhanced with pink pepper in the top while dressed in geranium in the heart. In the background, we find balsamic notes, cedar, and tonka bean. Surprising, this one!
Sans témoin plunges us in a warm amber accord. No more freshness; instead, we experience the moire lights of labdanum, with sensual and powdery vanilla puffs. A night getaway in Paris out of sight, surrounded by benzoin and tonka bean. I feel a small touch of honey, candied, that rounds the whole while patchouli, cedar, and tobacco bring woody shades to this balmy partition.
Besides this Platinum collection, Nathalie Feisthauer also signed for a new feminine perfume,Emmène-Moi. This is a bright fragrance with the pearly tones of osmanthus, the small flower from China, made airy with citrus notes in the top of the composition. The base is pretty clean, musky, to fit perfectly the mood of summer, touched by a slight tinge of leather. This perfume exudes a feeling of light, scintillating clarity, a sensual freshness.
The fragrances of the Gold and Platinum collections of the house Burdin are presented in glass bottles with architectural and timeless lines. Elegant, transparent, and bright, they welcome the subtly tinted fragrances under a golden or black cap.
Available in 100ml for 140 EUR.
Original article on Frangrantica.com