by Sergey Borisov on fragrantica.com, December 16th 2021
Attention all lovers of natural fragrances – as well as all those who find 100% natural fragrances unpleasant and muddy!
The natural perfume brand Parfumeurs du Monde has released a new collection of six beautiful 100% natural fragrances. And the entire collection – 14 fragrances by 10 perfumers – has received a new packaging design. If you’ve never heard what the beliefs are the brand is promoting, I suggest you read this 2018 interview with its founder, Thierry Bernard.
Nathalie Feisthauer and Ellen Dahlgren on the Parfumeurs du Monde launch
event at Jovoy Paris.
The new collection of fragrances, presented a week ago at the Parisian Jovoy boutique, was created by perfumers keenly aware of their responsibility to Nature and the farmers who grow aromatic plants. Among them are the founders of the brand Thierry Bernard, Isabelle Jelle, Ellen Dahlgren, and Alexander Helwani, as well as Bertrand Duchafour and Nathalie Feisthauer, well-known independent perfumers.
Les Larmes d’Aden by Bernard Thierry was inspired by the ancient roads of The Incense Trade Route.
“On the rim of Arabia Felix, where India, Africa, and Asia do meet, lies the harbour of Aden. Thence, caravans laden with spices and incense prepared to journey through the desert: on this ancient road rhythmed by oases, there still lingers in the air the divine scent of the Tears of Aden.”
Les Larmes d’Aden Parfumeurs du Monde
Perfumer: Thierry Bernard.
Top notes: Beeswax, Citron and Neroli
Middle notes: Frankincense, Jasmine and Galbanum
Base notes: Ginger, Myrrh and Labdanum
I would love to try all the perfumes of this collection, but… I only managed to smell one of the scents, Nam Chaa Parfumeurs du Monde, by Nathalie Feisthauer, which is inspired by a cup of Thai black tea on a terrace on Koh Tao island, with a magnificent view.
“The quintessence of a generous beauty.
Sitting on a Kapock cushion, I put down my book. My senses jostle between the tea plantation, the rice terraces, and the wooden house. The Nam Chaa reveals its beauty in such majestic scenery. The Coriander dances with the Ginger; the Black Tea is dressed with warm and gourmand exoticism: everything seems light and new in this jungle-covered hill.”
Although Nam Chaa simply means “black tea” in Thai, it is a bright, joyful, and even transparent scent in which greens, flowers, and some soft lactonic sweetness replace each other. The accent, in the beginning, is on a sweet and green citrus accord that lasts a very long time, turning into a tart green tea leaf, mashed between the fingers, and thin ginger petals. Who hasn’t tasted the famous lemon-ginger tea, that famous warming potion?
The obscure creamy sweetness of peach that softens the citrus fruits is reminiscent of condensed milk added to green tea but most likely aims to bring the tropical flowers the perfumer had around her. The story is like that of Remember Me Jovoy, built on an accord of citruses, black tea, frangipani flowers, and vanilla – and I mean only the story because the perfumes are far from each other – Jovoy’s fragrance is sweeter, smoky, and balsamic.
In Nam Chaa’s heart, besides ginger, I smelled green tea leaves, fresh and not yet fermented, tea plantation bushes, and sweet, very creamy flowers. For example, frangipani, with its fresh lily-of-the-valley smell with citrus and fruity tones, and the fruity aroma of a ripe peach (osmanthus?) Pure, subtle, beautiful, and feminine. After the fresh creamy flowers and tea, the perfume is filled with a neatly dosed sweetness without turning into a gourmand, remaining attentive and keeping an eye on the calories and its overall shape.
Nam Chaa, like all Parfumeurs du Monde fragrances in general, is an excellent example of how 100% natural fragrances can be elegant. Shapely. Graceful. Elven. More than the sum of the ingredients they contain. I think the secret lies in the experience and education of the perfumer, who knows how to set a task and complete it with the available materials. The main thing is not the materials but the skill.
Nam Chaa Parfumeurs du Monde
Perfumer: Nathalie Feisthauer
Top notes: Coriander, Grapefruit, Lemon, Ginger, and Bergamot
Middle notes: Tea, Mate, Champaca, and Jasmine
Base notes: Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, and Cedar
The Parfumeurs du Monde fragrances are available in Eau de Parfum concentration on the brand’s official website. The 50 ml bottles are priced at 145 EUR. A set of samples costs 28 EUR. In addition, the fragrances are offered at the Parisian boutique Jovoy and through its website.
Read more on : www.fragrantica.com
Parfumeurs du monde website : www.parfumeurs-du-monde.fr